In Poland’s ‘J-Town,’ Soldiers Move Arms to Ukraine as Russian Spies Try to Stop Them

RZESZÓW, Poland—Polish authorities first got wind of a Russian-organized espionage operation targeting a crucial logistics hub for Ukraine’s war from an unexpected source: an inebriated man stumbling along spotted a suspicious camera pointed at railroad tracks not far from the local airport.

The discovery by the local resident sparked an organized search that led to the discovery of more cameras at rail stations and rail crossings. In March, the country’s security services announced that they had dismantled a spy ring that was planning to derail trains used to transport weapons destined for Ukraine.

The spy ring, and the effort to stop it, speaks to the critical role of the logistics hub at Rzeszów—or J-Town as many in the Polish and American military now call it. The hub, located in the vicinity of Rzeszów—Jasionka Airport, around 60 miles from the Ukrainian border, is a critical link in a supply chain that moves billions of dollars in weapons through Poland that Western countries have sent to help Ukrainian forces to beat back Russian troops now dug in behind heavily-fortified lines.

The role of J-Town in Ukraine’s war hinges not only on counterespionage operations to fend off potential attacks, but also on delicate diplomacy. Ties between Ukraine and Poland, normally close, were strained last week over a dispute that began over grain shipments but snowballed into weapons deliveries.

The logistics hub emerged in the space of just 48 hours after Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine in February 2022. The Ukrainians requested a hub that was close to the border, with good infrastructure and transportation connections. Rzeszów fit the bill.

Soon after, Ukrainian authorities were notifying suppliers to deliver weapons to a warehouse in Rzeszów, a previously sleepy town that had a rail hub and a commercial airport.

When Rzeszów proved difficult for many U.S. military personnel to pronounce, they started calling it J-Town and the name stuck (Rzeszów is pronounced zhesh-oof, with the zh sounding roughly like a J in English). Some in the Polish military have also embraced the J-Town moniker, and use it themselves.

“It’s fantastic,” said Col. Radosław Sułek, the facility’s commander, a logistics officer with prior experience in Afghanistan.

During a visit last week, aid was rolling into J-Town on a steady basis. Standing at the top of an old air-traffic control tower, Sułek pointed to an American C-17 landing at the airport. “I’m pretty happy,” he said as the plane taxied down the runway. “Another job to do.”

A few minutes later, another C-17, having finished its delivery, took off.

Spat between neighbors

The continuing deliveries at the Polish logistics hub, officially known as POLLOGHUB, are evidence that, despite last week’s diplomatic dispute, weapons deliveries from Poland to Ukraine are continuing.

The dispute began after Kyiv filed a complaint with the World Trade Organization against Poland, Slovakia and Hungary for continuing to ban the import of Ukrainian grain. It escalated amid heated comments from political leaders on both sides. Midweek, Polish Prime Minister Mateusz Morawiecki said during a TV interview that Poland isn’t “transferring weapons to Ukraine,” which some interpreted as a potential suspension of arms supplies to the war.

Polish officials quickly clarified that this only referred to purchases for the country’s own armed forces, and Warsaw would, as planned, transfer to Kyiv a batch of howitzers, mine-clearing vehicles, and its regular supplies of ammunition, among other equipment. But the tensions underscored a potential crack in what has been arguably Ukraine’s most reliable alliance in the war against Russia.

“There’s a disappointment that [Ukrainian President Volodymyr] Zelensky’s words focus now on the financial aspect of our relationship, especially now after the massive amount of support we’ve given,” said Jacek Siewiera, chief of Poland’s National Security Bureau. “But that won’t stop Poland from supporting Ukraine to the end because we want to see Ukraine reclaiming territory, which is also in our national interest.”

The logistics hub at Rzeszów is arguably the linchpin of that support. Though Poland doesn’t provide numbers, officials say most Western support that flows into Ukraine goes through the hub. From there, the deliveries are unloaded, and then depending on the priority, prepared for truck convoys or other ground transport traveling to the border, where Ukrainian authorities take over.

Sułek rattles off the list of military equipment his personnel have dealt with, including tanks, armored personnel carriers, helicopters, and artillery. “A huge quantity of ammunition,” he said.

Most targeted airport in Europe

The logistics hub is unusual in that it coexists in parallel with a civilian airport, while operating separately from it. The flights bringing weapons land on the same runway as commercial aircraft.

“I was there and I’m like, ‘Holy smoke, it is a civilian airport,’ ” said Lt. Gen. Piotr Błazeusz, the deputy chief of the general staff of the Polish armed forces. “Ryanair still flies from J-Town,” he said, referring to the European discount airline.

The presence of a wartime logistics hub has brought changes—and concerns—to what had been a civilian airport. There are several layers of air defense systems, provided by the U.S., U.K. and Poland. American Patriot batteries are clearly visible from the airport.

“It’s the best protected area in Europe,” said Sułek, noting the air-defense systems, as well as physical protection around the airport.

The protection isn’t just the visible uniformed police and military, but also intelligence and special forces personnel operating quietly in the area.

The airport may be the best protected area in Europe, but it is also among the most targeted, at least for espionage.

Since the spy ring was identified earlier this year, Poland has investigated other potential threats, including recent train disruptions linked to unauthorized radio traffic. An outbreak of Legionnaires’ disease in the Rzeszów area killed more than a dozen people, prompting Polish security services to launch an investigation looking at potential intentional contamination of the water, including by Russia.

The Russian Embassy didn’t respond to a request for comment about espionage allegations related to Rzeszów, but officials in Moscow have previously denounced Poland for its role in supporting Ukraine.

In the city of Rzeszów, less than 10 miles from the airport, there is little visible sign of those espionage concerns. In the cobblestoned main square, someone was operating a small drone equipped with a video camera that swooped above the buildings, filming the city.

But local residents are on alert, according to a Polish official who described how the first Russian spy camera was found with the help of a “completely drunk” man. “In Poland, they are aware of the risks and especially in the south of Poland,” he said. “And in the area of Rzeszów-Jasionka, they are really hyperaware.”

Thomas Grove, Karolina Jeznach and Drew Hinshaw contributed to this article.

Write to Sharon Weinberger at sharon.weinberger@wsj.com